Koh Chang is Thailand's third largest island and most of it is protected rainforest inside Mu Ko Chang National Park. That combination of size and protection shapes everything about a visit.
Koh Chang is Thailand's third largest island, after Phuket and Samui, and most of it is protected rainforest inside Mu Ko Chang National Park. The island has a long history as a quiet, sparsely populated place, and only became a tourist destination in recent decades. Its size and protected interior are the reason it still feels green and unhurried.
If you are staying near Lonely Beach, you are on the south-west coast, where the sunsets are and where most of the beaches, restaurants and bars are found. The rest of the island is mountains, jungle, fishing villages and mangroves.
How big is Koh Chang?
Koh Chang is a large island, with a mountainous interior covered in dense forest. The west coast is a chain of beaches facing the sunset, while the east coast is quieter, with fishing communities and mangroves. Because the island is large, distances can surprise you. The main west coast road climbs and dips over steep headlands, so a journey that looks short on the map can take longer than you expect. Allow 45 to 60 minutes to drive from the ferry pier to Lonely Beach, for example.
A short history of Koh Chang
For most of its history, Koh Chang was a remote island with small fishing and farming communities. Its name means Elephant Island, though the elephants that gave it the name are not found in the wild here today. Until the late twentieth century, Koh Chang had no roads and few visitors. Tourism grew steadily, but the national park protection has kept large parts of the island undeveloped. Today it is a popular destination, but it still feels a world away from the busy resorts of Phuket or Samui.
Mu Ko Chang National Park
Mu Ko Chang National Park covers much of the island as well as dozens of smaller islands and the surrounding sea. The park protects rainforest, waterfalls, mangroves and coral reefs. Entry to the park costs ฿200 for foreign visitors and covers sites such as Klong Plu and Than Mayom waterfalls on the same day.
The park is also why the island's interior remains wild. There are no high-rises or golf courses, and the building code limits development. For visitors, that means jungle walks, waterfall swims and quiet corners are never far away.
Koh Chang today
Tourism is now the main industry, concentrated on the west coast. Lonely Beach, where Paradise Cottage sits, is the island's most social beach, with bars, restaurants and a relaxed backpacker vibe. Further north, White Sand Beach and Klong Prao have more resorts and amenities, while the east coast remains quiet and traditional.
The island receives visitors from around the world, but it has not lost its laid-back character. You will still see fishing boats, monkeys in the trees and the occasional water buffalo. The mix of nature and comfort is what makes Koh Chang appealing.
What size means for your stay
Because Koh Chang is large, it helps to plan your days. The main road along the west coast connects the beaches, and shared songthaew taxis run along it. You can flag one down and agree the price before you get in. Motorbikes are available for rent, but the hills are steep and the bends tight, so only ride if you are experienced.
If you want to explore the east coast or the waterfalls, allow a full morning or afternoon. The team at Paradise Cottage can arrange taxis, motorbike hire and tours. For more on getting around, see our guide to motorbike rental and waterfalls.
Lonely Beach is a good base for exploring the south and west of the island. From here you can reach Bang Bao, Bailan Bay and the waterfalls in under an hour.
Wherever you stay, the island's size means there is always another beach or village to discover. Take your time, and let the island set the pace.
Quick answers
How big is Koh Chang?
Koh Chang is a large island, the third largest in Thailand. Most of its interior is mountainous rainforest, and the west coast is a chain of beaches.
What is the history of Koh Chang?
Koh Chang was historically a quiet island with fishing communities. It remained undeveloped until tourism arrived in recent decades. The national park protects much of the island.
Is Koh Chang touristy?
Koh Chang has a tourist industry, mainly on the west coast, but it is less developed than Phuket or Samui. The national park covers much of the island, keeping it green and relatively quiet.
How long does it take to drive around Koh Chang?
The main west coast road from the ferry pier to Lonely Beach takes about 45 to 60 minutes. Driving to the east coast or the far south can take longer due to the hills and winding roads.
