Koh Chang is worth the trip if you like green mountains, waterfalls and slow days by the sea. It is less right for anyone who wants a quick journey, guaranteed sun or a beach at the door.
Yes, Koh Chang is worth visiting if you want a big, green, mountainous island with jungle waterfalls, clear reefs and a sunset over the sea most evenings. It is not the right choice if you want a short journey, a guaranteed dry week or soft sand directly in front of your bungalow.
We run a small resort on Lonely Beach, so we are not neutral. We will try to be fair anyway, because guests who arrive knowing what to expect are the ones who relax fastest.
What you get
Most of the island's interior is protected rainforest inside Mu Ko Chang National Park. The west coast is a chain of beaches facing the sunset, and the east coast is fishing villages and mangroves. There are no high-rises, so the island still feels like an island.
- Waterfalls. Klong Plu on the west coast ends at a high fall with a deep, cool pool. It opens 08:00 to 16:30, and the national park ticket costs ฿200 for foreign visitors. The same ticket covers Than Mayom on the east coast on the same day. Klong Neung and Khiri Phet are free.
- Reefs. The clearest water is around Koh Rang, a protected marine park to the south. Day trips leave Bang Bao or Kai Bae around 09:00 to 09:30, and the marine park fee is usually ฿200 on top of the trip.
- Stilt villages. Bang Bao has a long wooden pier of shops, cafes and seafood restaurants. Salak Phet, in the south-east, is quieter.
- Sunsets. Every beach on the west coast faces open water, and the evening sky is free.
If you want a longer list, our slow guide to things to do has the details.
Who it suits
Koh Chang suits people who are happy with two or three things a day and a hammock in between. It works for couples, families, friends and anyone travelling alone, because the pace is easy and the options are varied.
It suits you if you:
- like jungle and water as much as beaches
- enjoy a sociable evening but also want a quiet bed
- would rather float in a pool than queue for a tour
Lonely Beach is the island's most social corner, with bars and live music after dark. Bailan Bay next door is the calmer, wellness-minded neighbour. You can have a lively evening and still walk home to the sound of the sea.
What to know first
Here are the things that disappoint people when nobody mentions them.
- It is a journey. From Bangkok it usually takes 6 to 7.5 hours door to door, including a car ferry.
- It rains. Koh Chang is one of the wettest parts of Thailand. Some days in the green season are grey from start to finish.
- The sea changes. From around June to October the waves pick up on the west coast, currents can be strong and some boat trips are cancelled.
- The hills are steep. The coast road has tight bends. Rent a motorbike only if you are experienced. Shared songthaew taxis run along the main road.
- Our own shore is rocky. The shoreline in front of Paradise Cottage is good for sunsets, not paddling. The sandy part of Lonely Beach is a 10 to 15 minute walk, and our pool on the deck is always there for a swim.
None of this is a reason to stay away. It is just the island being what it is.
When it is worth most
For the most sun and the calmest sea, come between November and early March. That is also the busiest time, so book early.
The green season, roughly June to October, has a different case to make. The jungle is deep green, the waterfalls are full and strong, the beaches are quiet and room rates are at their lowest. If you can plan boat days flexibly and accept a few wet afternoons, it is a very good time to be here. Right now, in October, the rain is easing and the island is calm.
Our guide to when to visit goes month by month.
The journey
The route is by road or air to Trat province, a car ferry to the island, then a ride down the west coast. The ferry takes about 25 to 45 minutes and costs around ฿80 to ฿90 per person. Songthaew taxis from the island pier take about 45 to 60 minutes to Lonely Beach.
Most people find the crossing is where the holiday starts. Stand on the top deck and watch the mountains come closer. If you leave Bangkok early, you arrive in the afternoon, in time for a swim and sunset. Check-in at Paradise Cottage is from 14:00. All the options and costs are in our Bangkok to Koh Chang guide.
Waterfall and marine park fees are ฿200 each for foreign visitors. Our rates are estimates and depend on your dates, so ask the team on WhatsApp. Our cost guide shows what a stay really adds up to.
How long to stay
Four to five days is enough to snorkel Koh Rang, swim at a waterfall, see Bang Bao and the east coast, and still keep one full day for doing nothing. Given the journey, we would not come for fewer than three nights.
Many guests stay a week or longer once they slow down. The usual story is that the phone stays in the room around day three, breakfast takes an hour and the biggest decision of the afternoon is which hammock.
So, is it worth it? If that sounds like your kind of holiday, yes. If you need a packed itinerary or certain sunshine, think again.
Quick answers
Is Koh Chang worth visiting?
Yes, if you want rainforest, waterfalls, reefs and west coast sunsets at a slow pace. It is less suited to travellers who want a short journey or guaranteed dry weather.
Is Koh Chang worth visiting in the rainy season?
Yes, if you like quiet, green landscapes and lower prices. Expect some wet days and cancelled boat trips, but also full waterfalls and empty beaches.
How many days do you need on Koh Chang?
Four to five days lets you snorkel Koh Rang, swim at a waterfall, see Bang Bao and the east coast, and still have a day for doing nothing. Many guests stay a week or longer.
What are the downsides of Koh Chang?
The journey from Bangkok takes 6 to 7.5 hours, the island is very wet, the west coast sea gets rough from around June to October and the coast road is steep. Some stretches of shore, including the one in front of Paradise Cottage, are rocky.
