Koh Chang food is mostly Thai kitchens, seafood over the water and good breakfasts. Here is what to order, where to find it and how to eat slowly, written from our deck on Lonely Beach.
Food on Koh Chang is mainly Thai: green curry, pad thai, cashew chicken, spring rolls and mango sticky rice, cooked in small kitchens along the road and served with international dishes alongside. The island's other great meal is seafood, which you choose from ice at the fishing villages of Bang Bao and Salak Phet and eat over the water.
You do not need a plan. Around Lonely Beach you can eat well every night without repeating yourself, and the best meals tend to be the unhurried ones.
What to order first
If you are new to Thai food, start with the classics. They are popular for good reason, and nearly every kitchen on the island cooks them.
- Green curry. Coconut, herbs and chilli, usually with rice and sometimes a Thai omelette on the side.
- Pad thai. Stir-fried noodles, often with prawns.
- Cashew chicken. A good dish if you want something less fiery.
- Spring rolls. A sensible starter for the table.
- Mango sticky rice. Pudding, but also a perfectly reasonable lunch.
Thai food is made for sharing. Order several dishes for the table and let them arrive when they arrive. Eat with a spoon and fork, the Thai way: the fork pushes food onto the spoon, and the spoon goes in your mouth.
Eating around Lonely Beach
The main road through Lonely Beach is lined with Thai kitchens, street food stalls, cafes and international restaurants. That is enough variety for a week. A fresh fruit shake in the afternoon is one of the easy pleasures here.
Our own restaurant at Paradise Cottage serves breakfast, fresh coffee and Thai and international dishes, with cocktails as the sun goes down. It sits on the deck above the sea, so dinner comes with the sound of the water. After dark the bars and late-night food of the beach are within walking distance, close enough to stroll home. More on the neighbourhood is in Lonely Beach, honestly.
Seafood over the water
Bang Bao, at the southern end of the west coast road, is a fishing village built on stilts. Its long wooden pier is lined with shops, cafes and seafood restaurants where the day's catch sits on ice out front. You choose dinner by pointing. Come for a late lunch, walk to the end of the pier, then head back up the coast for sunset. Our guide to the Bang Bao pier has more on the village.
On the east coast, Salak Phet in the south-east is a long bay of stilt houses, fishing boats and seafood restaurants over the water. It feels a world away from the beach strip. It pairs well with the free Khiri Phet waterfall nearby, and with the mangroves at Salak Khok, for a full east coast day.
Breakfast, coffee and fruit
Mornings here are slow, and breakfast is part of the day rather than a stop before it. At Paradise Cottage the bread is baked in our own kitchen, the coffee is fresh and there is always more of it. You can have eggs, bacon, salad and rolls, or a banana pancake if the day calls for it.
Tropical fruit is worth eating daily. Mango, rambutan and whatever else is in season arrive on a plate, and a mango a day is a fair rule for the island.
How to eat well on the island
- Carry cash. Street food, songthaews and boat fees are usually paid in baht notes.
- Drink water. The heat is real all year, and Thai food with chilli makes it feel hotter.
- Use repellent at dusk. Mosquitoes find outdoor tables, especially in the green season.
- Eat where the day takes you. Seafood at Bang Bao after a boat trip, a long Thai lunch on a rainy afternoon, a late supper near the beach bars.
- Check prices locally. They vary by place and dish, so we do not quote them here. For the wider picture, read what a stay really costs.
A final note: Koh Chang is not a place for rushing meals. If lunch takes two hours, you have eaten correctly.
Quick answers
What food is Koh Chang known for?
Thai classics such as green curry, pad thai, cashew chicken and mango sticky rice, plus fresh seafood chosen from ice at fishing villages like Bang Bao and Salak Phet. International dishes are easy to find too.
Where can I eat seafood on Koh Chang?
Bang Bao on the west coast and Salak Phet in the south-east both have seafood restaurants over the water. At Bang Bao the day's catch sits on ice outside and you choose by pointing.
Can I eat well around Lonely Beach?
Yes. The main road has Thai kitchens, street food, cafes and international restaurants, so you can eat somewhere different every night. Paradise Cottage also has its own restaurant for breakfast, lunch, dinner and cocktails.
Should I carry cash for food on Koh Chang?
Yes, carry some baht. Street food, songthaew taxis and boat fees are usually paid in cash.
